Devotees who lamented the closing of acclaimed French-African eatery Korhogo 126 in Carroll Gardens can get off the Prozac—sorta: Owner Abdhul Traore has resurfaced in Harlem with this West African shawarma takeout counter serving some of Korhogo’s dishes, like the burger (made with nuts) and shrimp piri piri (sautéed shrimp with West African ratatouille). Continue reading
Before African flavors graced the menus of contemporary New York eateries such as Merkato 55, Xai Xai, and Braai downtown, they were best found in enclaves like West Harlem’s Litte Africa.
Here, immigrants mostly from Senegal, Ivory Coast, Ghana and Ethiopia, offer visitors delectable restaurants, markets, and vendors along Frederick Douglass Boulevard from 113th to 120th streets.
We had Ivory Coast-born chef Abdhul Traore (formerly of Korhogo 126 and Les Enfants Terribles) take us on a culinary tour of his favorite neighborhood restaurants:
2200 Frederick Douglass Blvd., 212-666-0078
This Senegalese-owned establishment is well known for its French-style pastries and seafood dishes. While French is the first language, don’t let that dissuade you — the menu touts its offerings in English, though its specialty, theibu djen, is curiously unlisted. Ask for it, and you’ll be rewarded with a rich, tomato-based stew of sun-dried sea snails, barracuda fish fillet, and root vegetables, including cassava, cabbage, and yams served over spicy “broken” rice. In keeping with Muslim tradition, no alcoholic beverages are served, though sweet standards like ginger juice or sorrel (made from the hibiscus flower) are a refreshing alternative. Continue reading